Capri

12 May Latte' e Liett' apartment directly opposite the ferry terminal in Naples (overlooking Via Cristofero Colombo)

(Slightly out of sequence for technical reasons!)

We knew that Naples has the best pick-pockets in the world, but I thought my little bag, securely zipped up, with small wallet at the bottom of it, was pretty secure. It wasn't!

Some of the things we wanted to see were closed today, so we decided to go to the Isle of Capri, as Lia recommended it as her most favourite place on earth.

We had crossed the road to the dock when I decided to run back for my jumper. I didn't see anyone, I didn't feel anyone, but suddenly my bag was unzipped and ominously lighter. So, we got a refund on the tickets Phil had just bought and came back here to stop the cards. One hour and 20 mins later this was done, but not before a withdrawal had been made from our VISA card (which we are mostly not liable for). Luckily there wasn't much cash in my wallet.

After this we had a review of our security. I'm now carrying my bag across the body and in front of it, Phil's carrying cash in two places, and only a little in his wallet. We hope by these means we can finish our trip without coming unstuck again.

So, we got to Capri rather later than expected, but it was gorgeous, and spectacular with its limestone cliffs rearing above everything, and three limestone pillars jutting out of an amazing aquamarine sea. Another playground of the rich and famous, it has some amazing hotels and houses, and shops full of exquisite things. Restaurants have photo board outside, with pictures of the famous who have eaten there. (We had bread and bananas on a wall with a view!)

We came back at 8.30pm and then went out to dinner again. We've decided that we mostly cook for ourselves, but in Naples – home of pizza and pasta – we have to sample her wares. So we went back to the Bufala restaurant, which turned out to be owned by the Bufala brothers, as well as specialising in buffalo products (including buffalo). Not only was it another of Giancarlo's recommended restaurants, but it was in his top ten, and we found a way of not eating the buffalo meat, which was to have mozzarella and ricotta based things, and vegetables.

So, we ate green beans in garlic and oil, ricotta based gnocchi in tomato basil sauce, roast aubergine with ricotta (or was it mozzarella?) and a buffalo ricotta based cheese cake dessert topped with chocolate sauce. It was all really good, and the story of the Bufala brothers was interesting too.